But most people stick to one of three routes, the Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys or the North Face. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. Failure to reach the summit due to a team members own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc. While not ideal, I also knew that I had enough tools in my mental toolbox that with a few extra ounces of gear I could problem solve our way through any alpine shenanigans and/or any hang-ups should someone decide they couldn't handle scrambling/down-climbing a given section and needed to be lowered, raised, given a hand-line or rope to ascend etc. Climbers must have the proper equipment, skills, and experience for a given route. We rappel our route and descend to high camp. Ascend the first chimney for about 200 ft. Below a difficult step exit right and continue up ridge. At the top, the transition to snow was simple, the moat was not an issue. Photo Daniel Bynum. Vertical Gain Climbing: 2,500 feet We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength. We all downclimbed Winnies Slide and were happy to make our last steps off snow as we reach the top of the chimney. Depends on, Priority for the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st . Tax ID: 27-3009280. Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount find out current ranger station hours, phone number, and location for the backcountry and climbing information station for the park. Payments Policy. The Guide Hut offers a selection of retail items, Northwest Alpine Guides logo wear, and a selection of climbing equipment. All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. Photo by Blitzo. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 hr camp to summit. This is a popular trail for backpacking, camping, and hiking, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. Generally considered a challenging route. The approach to high camp via hiking and easy rock climbing in a series of chimneys takes 6 hours. Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Day by Day Day 1. We are a committed equal opportunity outdoor recreation service provider. Photo by K.Beckwith. The latest climbing conditions reports are obtained from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and reports from other climbers. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. Shadows cast, I presume, by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we moved up the Sulphide glacier. This is our happy place. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. The Fisher Chimneys Route demands approximately 6,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. We recommend training for Mount Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route at least 3-6 months in advance. Northwest Alpine Guides cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Read our Goals and Fitnesspage for recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. . At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins. SE Ridge was clear of snow all the way to the summit, decent enough rock, no slings or anchors on the ridge proper. Rising to a height of 9,131 feet, Mt. Unfortunately, he hadn't been on the previous trip, so he had yet to do any sort of real-world climbing at all. . Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map), and cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. This was his first time climbing in mountain boots as well. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. Shuksan Arm is located in the Mount Baker National Forest. From the top of the Slide, moderate climbing across three glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide) leads to the foot of the summit pyramid, which we ascend via a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or 5th class rock climbing on the pyramids Southeast Ridge. If you must leave a piece of webbing during a rappel, remove one or more of the ratty slings already in place, and use a natural color webbing that will not be visible from a distance. Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Hike south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). The road Is closed a little bit before the official lake Ann trailhead but you can park in the lower lots and walk up ( less than half a mile). Approximately 2.5 miles from the trailhead is a signed . Heather and huckleberry are woody species whose stems break under the weight of boots, packs, or tents. If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibilityfor any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet Day 1: Lunch & snacks for hike from trailhead to high camp, Dinner The tent you save from being gnawed by a rodent might be your own. Solid holds all over the chimneys make for fun scrambling. Hot Drinks:Coffee, Caffeinated Tea, Herbal Tea, Cocoa, Cider. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp Or, walk-up permits can be obtained for free from any park ranger station in-person just before your climb, if sites are available, on a last-minute basis. Camped at Ann lake. Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. On this trip we will attempt the Fisher Chimney's . Spontaneity Arete from the previous weekend. Dates & Prices. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Day 2. Northwest Alpine Guides will instruct you how to climb safely and successfully. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Additional parking can be found across the street in the Park & Ride lot. Some examples of snack foods include dried meats (salami), jerky (turkey, beef, fish), tuna fish, cheese, crackers, bagels, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, candy bars, gummy candy, cookies, energy bars and trail mix. Sulphide Glacier Approach. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. Tax ID: 27-3009280. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. Do ask an experienced ranger how many piles of poop he or she has seen while on patrol, and you will realize that this problem is bigger than you want to think. info@northwestalpineguides.com, 305 F And S Grade Road Note: An adequately sized backpack is required. The Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. The small town of Sedro-Woolley, The Gateway to the North Cascades, is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. Pre-dawn alpine start form High Camp ascending the glaciers to the Summit of 9131 with light summit packs. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. Please check the backcountry permits page for more information, including when and how permits are obtained. Each deposit includes a $300.00 nonrefundable registration fee. Here, Rob is at the last good stance to unrope at the end of the rap. Chimneys scramble was easier than I expected, I brought some rock pro but didn't use it at all. The drive to Lake Ann Trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours. Meals Included: None. A deposit of $500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the course. Trip: Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Trip Date: 08/04/2019 Trip Report: . Know and follow these dos and donts for dealing with human waste. Kyle and I climbed Shuksan via the classic Fisher Chimneys route + SE rib on Sunday. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. RMI's guides have been climbing and guiding in the Alaska Range for over half a century. Story captured by Kristen Connolly On July 7-8, a team of five climbers headed up the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. Overview. The Guide Hut / Northwest Alpine Guides The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns. Many a climber on a long, back-breaking approach has cursed thickets of devils club or slide alder or the clinging snags of downed trees. Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. ), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. I got him on belay, had him remove the micro-traxion when he got to it, and then bring up Joe. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). Mount Shuksan has become the iconic face of the rugged North Cascades of Washingon, with its picturesque north face a ubiquitous presence on calendars and souveniers. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. When you must cross a vegetated area, spread out so that all your footsteps dont crush the same plant. Take SR-542 past the Mount Baker Ski Area as far as the road goes depending on the time of year. Please read our Online Reservation for Terms and Conditions. Dont be shy about dealing with your human waste. The books listed below are examples of titles available on this subject (listing does not imply endorsement by the National Park Service). No date changes allowed less than 45 days before departure. I hadnt seen pictures of either bivy site before the trip, and I was very pleasantly surprised to find a gorgeous site sitting alongside the seracs of the Upper Curtis glacier with incredible views of Mt. Suggested food items: Alpine Breakfast: Instant oatmeal, Pop Tarts, dried fruit, granola bars, bagels, peanut butter, cream cheese. Most climbers will fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) the evening before the program and rent a car for the hour and forty-five minute drive to Sedro Woolley, Washington. Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. From the summit, we enjoy views of the glaciers beneath us on Shuksans north face, and the serrated peaks of the North Cascades. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). I also wanted to ensure I packed my mirrorless camera with a couple lenses this time; Id skimped on photos my last few trips to focus on pushing my climbing grades but I missed the documentation aspect of the outings. The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain's northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online atTheGuideHut.com. Minus the ropes, what I packed for the trip. Shuksan (9,131') is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington's North Cascades. North Cascades Alpine Climbing. At the top of Hells Highway, we put the crampons on evaluated the slope. To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. Burlington, WA 98233, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling. When registering for a trip within . 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. about 7:40 and were the first car in the parking lot. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. updates, images and resources. One of the other group members (Rob) was available for this weekend, making it a party of 3. No extra acclimatization is necessary for this program. After a short time, we began the descent. Day 2: Climb the North Face, circumnavigate to the base of the summit pyramid, climb to the summit, descend to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. Joe finally soaking up some sun once we got above the cloud layer. Not only did I climb my two hardest alpine routes to-date over these back to back weekends but led them, and led them while teaching two brand new climbers overcoming a variety of alpine climbing challenges. This short traverse from the end of the ropes to the final rap station was not that difficult though. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Learn to co-exist with the devils club Six people is the recommended party size for this climb. Traverse across a large talus field, gaining about 100 ft, to a gully on the far side. Learn to appreciate and respect this signature ritual of Cascades climbs. Shuksan. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake . Mount Shuksan is a glaciated massif in the North Cascades National Park. Shuksan. We recommend a selection of sweet, sour and salty food. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Mount Shuksan's West Face during Winter. With the second weekend rapidly approaching I had to figure out what our objective would be. Day Mt Shuksan Fisher Chimneys 4 Day Itinerary Day 1 At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Variations are possible, and even likely, in the chimneys. One waste kit per 1-3 days is typically sufficient. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. Permits are required to camp beyond this point and can be obtained for free at the Glacier Public . August 18 August 20, 2023 3 spots left, Mount Shuksan, the Crown Jewel of the North Cascades, is one of the most photographed mountains in the Cascade Range. Mt. Shuksan. We enjoy dinner and go to bed early for the next days climb. Also remember that in this wilderness park the vegetation is protected: cutting, limbing, or destroying vegetation is illegal and can result in a serious citation. Dont toss it in a crevasseglaciers of the Pacific Northwest are relatively thin and it melts out quickly. This was a fun climb, and a huge confidence booster. The summit register was in terrible condition, full of scraps of loose paper, we had to just squeeze our names into a space in-between the other entries. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. Northwest Alpine Guides does not insure you against these risks. Photo courtesy of Joe. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . Meet at our Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA. Although it took more time, I set up rappels on the tough sections of the chimneys. Many injuries occur on the approach, when climbers often let their guard down, but the most serious injuries can occur during a climb. Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. Trails Hiked. Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. Join Us on a 4 Day Mt. My Tarptent ProTrail Li has never been that easy to set up but perfectly, but it was great for this trip; light, well ventilated and with a compact footprint. Transportation between the meeting location and the trailhead is not included in the price of the trip. Trail synopsis: We hike the Shannon Ridge trail (an old logging road) northeast for 2 miles to its terminus at about 4,000 feet, then ascend switchbacks . Regardless, we just barely made it to the bottom of the very last scramble as evening twilight faded to true nighttime. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. For more information on food storage requirements see. Cross the slope, losing no more than 100 ft, and pick up the clear trail as it crosses heather slopes. Route options for those with more experience can include the North Ridge of Mt. More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. I listed Rob as the alternate trip leader on the permit since he would have an easier time skipping out of work early on Friday to make it to the ranger station in time to grab the permit. As a climber, you will be in a land of fragile vegetationtreat it with great care! Certainly, there are loose pieces here and there, but most of the true class 4 sections had fantastic holds and in-between there were minimal patches of unstable dirt/kitty litter/rubble. Sedro Woolley, WA 98284, Office Hours Moving more slowly can be dangerous. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. Joe heading up to the base of Winnie's Slide, Practicing running belays using pickets on Winnie's Slide, The Upper Curtis glacier comes into view nearing the higher bivy site. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. Shuksan is a North Cascades classic involving an interesting mix of alpine terrain: climbing on rock, steep snow and potentially ice, and glacier travel to the base of the summit pyramid. I might start keeping at least a few sheets of 'write in the rain' paper on me for future climbs. Limited services are available in Sedro-Woolley. It didnt take long, and we arrived at the entrance of the chimney itself. and then we had to drive way off route into Marblemount to pick up a Park Service backcountry permitthe Park Service offices in Sedro Wooley and Glacier both closed at 4:30 pm that day and didn't open until 7:45 am on . There are a few extremely popular routes on Mt. Find these places your own way. Use a backpacking stove for cooking. If you are on snow or bare rock, you must resort to the final option: blue bag it! Hike 4.2 miles to Lake Anne to camp for the evening. Baker stands in the background. Mt. The Guide Hut exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides customers. The Northwest Forest Pass or the federal interagency recreation pass (America the Beautiful Pass) are honored at parking sites and are available at all ranger stations. It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . Location: South side of Mount Hood. Itinerary is approximate and subject to change. Beginning at Austin Pass, the Lake Ann Trail enters the Mount Baker Wilderness as it switchbacks down into the headwaters of the Swift Creek Drainage. I can see why most experienced parties would simul or solo the ridge, as the crux 5.3-5.4-ish moves werent always protectable anyways. 1. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the rock in the chimney. A view from Lake Ann approach trail 2. Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. A National Parks pass may suffice. Protect your gear and keep animals wild by urinating on bare rock, far away from camping areas, and by keeping salty gear and other food items out of reach of wildlife (use a bear canister, or hang food from tree limbs or large boulders). 4 climbers)Length: 3 days + 1/2 day travel and prep Cost: $1767.00 per person - 1 Climber/1 Guide $1167.00 per person - 2 Climbers/1 Guide $1377.00 per person - 3 Climbers/2 Guides $1167.00 per person - 4 Climbers/2 GuidesDates: July 20-23, 2022 August 5-8, 2022, Prep Day - Travel to the Skagit Valley, WA. You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. The Fisher Chimney Route is an excellent choice for intermediate mountaineers. 1. After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. Bladders may pop and hydration hoses freeze in the cold. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. This is a strenuous route that requires climbing technical terrain carrying an overnight pack. Fisher Chimneys 3 Day Ascent. After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.Day 3 - Summit Day! We hopped on the snow and continued un-roped to the base of Winnies Slide. Webbing left behind on climbing routes has also become an eyesorepounds and pounds of colorful, fraying webbing clutter some climbs. I knew that physical endurance wouldn't be an issue, we had all the gear, and the weather was going to be acceptable at a minimum. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. June 27-28. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Day 2: Alpine Breakfast, Lunch & snacks for climb to summit, Dinner Dont let members of your group get away with leaving a pile of poop in the wilderness! Hiking Time: 6 hours, Accommodations: Tented Camp Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. 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